How They’re Made | Nailed Heel Construction

redwingheritage:

Constructing a Red Wing Shoe nailed heel boot requires a few extra steps compared to the construction of other boots. While the process of sewing the uppers of the boots remains similar, there are a few differences in the bottoming process. Before any soles are attached to the upper, the rand, or the leather around the heel of the boot, is nailed down into the insole, locking the heel shape in place. The bottoms of the insoles have a partial ply rib attached to them, excluding the heel area. The ply rib enables the upper to be attached to the insole, using a Goodyear Welt. Once the welt has been attached to the upper, cork filler and a shank are added to the bottom of the shoe.  The shank provides added support to the arch of the boot.

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The outsole is cemented on and then stitched directly to the Goodyear Welt. The stitches go through the outsole and are visible from the bottom of the shoe. The welt begins just before the heel of the boot and ends on the other side of the boot, which is why it is considered to be a 270 degree welt. The second set of nails is added when the heeled area of the outsole is nailed on to the boot, securely locking the outsole onto the shoe. 

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Leather cutting is a precise hands-on job that involves evaluating a leather hide and cutting from that hide specific pieces used to build a Red Wing boot. It is a job that requires a human touch and a discerning eye.

For more than a century, Red Wing Shoe Company has built a reputation for making tough, comfortable footwear for hard working Americans. Red Wing Heritage now in stock at Totem Brand.

For more than a century, Red Wing Shoe Company has built a reputation for making tough, comfortable footwear for hard working Americans. Red Wing Heritage now in stock at Totem Brand.

Filson is now in stock at Totem Brand in Philadelphia. “Might as well have the best”

Filson is now in stock at Totem Brand in Philadelphia. “Might as well have the best”

Raleigh Denim makes limited edition jeans, using local materials and traditional construction methods, in their downtown Raleigh, NC workshop. Each pair is individually signed and numbered. Now in stock at Totem Brand in Philly!

Raleigh Denim makes limited edition jeans, using local materials and traditional construction methods, in their downtown Raleigh, NC workshop. Each pair is individually signed and numbered. Now in stock at Totem Brand in Philly!

Danner now in stock at Totem Brand in Philly!

Danner now in stock at Totem Brand in Philly!

Another fresh delivery from Rogue Territory! Now available at Totem Brand in Philly! 

Another fresh delivery from Rogue Territory! Now available at Totem Brand in Philly! 

Using time-honored shoemaking principles, each heritage style is hand-crafted using a genuine true-moccasin construction – the leather wraps all the way round the foot, creating a customized comfort fit that only gets better with time.

Using time-honored shoemaking principles, each heritage style is hand-crafted using a genuine true-moccasin construction – the leather wraps all the way round the foot, creating a customized comfort fit that only gets better with time.


Totem Brand opens on South Street
 

Totem Brand opens on South Street