How They’re Made | Nailed Heel Construction
Constructing a Red Wing Shoe nailed heel boot requires a few extra steps compared to the construction of other boots. While the process of sewing the uppers of the boots remains similar, there are a few differences in the bottoming process. Before any soles are attached to the upper, the rand, or the leather around the heel of the boot, is nailed down into the insole, locking the heel shape in place. The bottoms of the insoles have a partial ply rib attached to them, excluding the heel area. The ply rib enables the upper to be attached to the insole, using a Goodyear Welt. Once the welt has been attached to the upper, cork filler and a shank are added to the bottom of the shoe. The shank provides added support to the arch of the boot.
The outsole is cemented on and then stitched directly to the Goodyear Welt. The stitches go through the outsole and are visible from the bottom of the shoe. The welt begins just before the heel of the boot and ends on the other side of the boot, which is why it is considered to be a 270 degree welt. The second set of nails is added when the heeled area of the outsole is nailed on to the boot, securely locking the outsole onto the shoe.